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From Gene Autry to James Dean to Marlon
Brando, denim-clad movie stars strutted their stuff across the silver
screen in the 40s and 50s. What was once the uniform of the working
class became the hallmark of the cowboy, the rebel, and the wild
one. Blue jeans, or ‘Levi’s’ as they came to be known, were cool.
Cool, at least, with the affluent, post-World War II youth market
in the U.S. The Levi’s fad caught on with all factions of the national
student body, and complemented almost every teenage style—greasers
flaunted T-shirts, motorcycle boots and leather; preppies sported
button-down shirts and penny loafers; and girls slipped into tight
sweaters and saddle shoes. The fact that some schools banned blue
jeans, and that many parents disapproved of them, only added to
their outlaw allure for the younger generation.
This rebellious image continued to
serve Levi’s well during the social upheaval of the 60s, as blue
jeans pervaded the wardrobe of the country’s protesting youth. And
the baby boomers didn’t stop wearing Levi’s as they graduated from
college, or got married, or got a job; jeans entered the mainstream
in the 70s, a legacy of an American cultural revolution that brushed
aside the customs of an earlier, more rigid era. In 1977, Levi Strauss
& Co. produced its billionth pair of denim trousers, and was the
largest apparel manufacturer in the world. Today, denim is considered
appropriate attire for both men and women in all but the most formal
of situations; we commonly see blue jean-wearers in restaurants,
theaters, office buildings, and even churches. Author Ed Cray offers
some reasons for the popularity and staying power of blue jeans:
Utilitarians pointed to ease of
care and to comfort, letting it go at that. Social scientists
argued for the once lowly blue denim pants a reverse snob appeal,
labeled it a manifestation of a galloping youth culture, or viewed
it as a harbinger of spreading emphasis on leisure and the affluence
to maintain such affectations. (Cray, 191)
It seems certain that durability
and versatility are factors that sustain growth in the jeans market.
But for how long? Levi Strauss & Co. lost market share in recent
years, sliding from 31% to 17% of total sales, to competitors like
Tommy Hilfiger, Diesel, Old Navy, and to long-time adversaries,
Lee and Wrangler. Baggy pant styles and spandex-blend fabrics have
won the affection of teenagers, who perceive Levi’s as clothes for,
you know, old people. In a world increasingly driven by technology,
cultural and economic modes evolve at an ever faster pace. Perhaps
succeeding generations will be outfitted like some valiant crew
member of the Starship Voyager, wearing an as yet undiscovered synthetic
material even more resilient and comfortable than denim.
The young fortune hunters that now
journey to Northern California arrive with dreams of innovation
and success in the hi-tech industries of the Silicon Valley. Engineers
and computer scientists from all parts of the globe are drawn slightly
south of San Francisco by tales of stock options and BMWs, Oracle
and Napster. These modern day pioneers share an enterprising nature
with the early Gold Rush settlers, and continue a tradition of California,
the largest state in the Union, on the forefront. And what's the
uniform of choice for the Silicon Valley workforce? Why, jeans and
a T-shirt, of course.
Bibliography:
- Cray, Ed. Levi’s. Boston: Houghton Mifflin Company, 1978.
- Fodor’s Exploring California. New York: Fodor’s Travel
Publications, Inc., 1999.
- Johnson, William W. The Forty-Niners. New York: Time-Life
Books, 1976.
- Lee, Louise. ‘Can Levi’s Be Cool Again?’ BusinessWeek.
13 March 2000, 144-148.
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